Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Standing at 5,895 meters (19,340 feet) above sea level, Mount Kilimanjaro is a dormant Stratovolcano which can claim to be both the tallest mountain in Africa and the largest free-standing mountain in the world.

In February 2024, I was offered the opportunity by Legend Expeditions to climb Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route over eight days.

Although the mountain wasn’t one I had considered climbing, the opportunity to stand on the roof of Africa and was too good to turn down.

I had no reservations about my fitness levels, having just got back from two weeks hiking around the Scottish Highlands and completing an Ironman back in September.

However I had never hiked above 3,000m, so I was slightly apprehensive about how my body would react to hiking up to 5,895m peak that only has 50% of amount of oxygen available at sea level.

This blog post contains my journal and accompanying images of the eight day trek to the summit of Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route.

At the end of the article you can also find some frequently asked questions about hiking Kilimanjaro alongside a separate blog posts on my Kilimanjaro kit list.

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route


Lemosho Route

The route I would be embarking on was the Lemosho route, which is arguably the most beautiful of the seven main routes to the summit. 

Ascending via the west side of the mountain, the routes starts at an altitude of 2,100m and takes between 7-8 days to complete.

We were tackling it over eight days in order to have more time to acclimatise and thus have a more successful chance of summiting.

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Lemosho Route Details

  • Start Point: Lemosho Gate (2,100m)

  • Finish Point: Mweka Gate (1,640m)

  • Distance: 65 km

  • Total ascent: 4,967m

  • Total descent: 5,585m

  • Days required: 7-8 days and 6-7 Night

  • Accommodation: The entirety of the Lemosho route is camping. With your equipment being carried and set up by local porters.

  • Who did I trek with: Legend Expeditions

 The build up to the hike

I landed at Kilimanjaro International airport two days before the climb started.  

Even though there was only three-hour time difference between Moshi and the UK, I’m glad I had an extra day in Tanzania.

It allowed me to properly recover from the 20-hour journey and gave me enough time to relax and make sure myself and my kit were in order before embarking on the eight-day climb.

We were staying in the AMEG Lodge, which is a beautiful resort with a pool and gym situated on the outskirts of Moshi Town.

AMEG Lodge beneath Mount Kilimanjaro

Legend Expeditions

I would be undertaking the trek with Legend Expeditions. A newly formed expedition company run by two ex-British Forces members, Jack Fleckney and Sam White.

Within the Legend Expeditions group there were 10 of us embarking on this trek.

We had a team of 39 locals supporting us which is made up of porters, guides, chefs, and runners.

This goes to show the man power and effort which goes into supporting your trek alongside the fact that you wouldn’t be able to do it with the incredible local team.

Alongside your rucksack which you carry up the mountain, you are allocated an additional duffel bag which must weigh below 14kg.

This bag contains all your spare clothes, sleeping bag, snacks, electronics and any additional gear you want to take up to the mountain with you.

As I was documenting the trip for Legend Expeditions, I was carrying a significant amount of electronic and camera equipment.

Alongside my two mirrorless Sony cameras, I had also packed 4 power banks, a tripod to film interviews, and my laptop in order to organise and back up each days footage.

The weight limit is set to 14kg because the bag is carried up the mountain by the porters, who under Tanzanian Law are only allowed to carry a maximum of 20kg.

Alongside your bag they also have to carry up their own equipment, all the gear for the camps which includes sleeping tents, mats, mess tents, tables and chairs, toilets, and all cooking and eating equipment.

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

 

Day One: Lemosho Gate (2100m) to Big Tree Camp (2650m)

The day began at the hotel in Moshi. After a leisurely morning we loaded up the minivan at around 9am and began the three hour drive to the start point.

We passed through numerous small villages and towns as the road wound its way up through the cultivation zone to Lemosho Gate.

At the gate we were given with a light lunch of Spaghetti Bolognaise and fruit before having our documents checked, bags weighed, and being officially entered into Kilimanjaro National Park’s Records.

Climbing Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

The hike started with a song from the local team before we had our obligatory photos and began our journey into the luscious canopy of rainforest. 

Day one was a leisurely warm up to ease us into the eight day trek.

As the temperature was very warm and humid I wore Adidas Terrex Free Hiker 2 GTX shoes, shorts, alongside a T-shirt. In my bag I carried an extra mid-layer for warmth alongside waterproof trousers and a jacket.

The single-track dirt path was well maintained and relatively easy going, snaking its way up and down through the trees.

The pace was pole pole, which means slowly slowly, this is done in order to save energy for the higher altitudes. 

Alongside a brief period of light rain, we even managed to spot some blue monkeys up in the trees. 

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Blue Monkey -  Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

After hiking 5.6km in 2 hours 45 minutes we arrived at Mti Mkubwa camp, also known as Big Tree Camp, situated at 2,650m.

Situated under the canopy, the camp was much bigger and busier than I expected. There must have been well over 150 tents spread out across a huge area.

Our incredible team of porters had already set up camp and had our duffel bags waiting for us in our tents.

The tents were to be shared by two people and were pretty spacious, with enough inside for both our duffel bags and backpacks. The padded mats provided were made of foam and well-padded which was a welcome addition.

Big Tree Camp - Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

I was also grateful that Legend Expeditions had invested in bringing up two small toilets for us to use.

Although each camp does have communal long drop toilets, they are in a very sorry and unhygienic state and are a big cause of D&V and illness on the mountain.

We had a delicious evening meal of carrot and coriander soup, followed by fried tilapia, roasted taters, and a sweet and sour sauce. 

After food we had our blood oxygen levels taken using a digital finger reader. This is done daily in order to see how each person is affected by altitude.

I managed a quick pits and bits bird bath in the shower cubicle which they brought up, before settling down for the night.

Big Tree Camp - Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Big Tree Camp - Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route


Day Two: Big Tree Camp (2650m) to Shira 1 Camp (3510m)

We were woken by the porters at 7:00am who brought us a hot drink to our tents.

I had a very broken sleep, partly to the noise of both the camp and local wildlife, but also because I was incredibly warm in my sleeping bag which had temperature rating of -18 degrees.

We had a very leisurely and relaxed breakfast of pancakes, porridge, omelette, and fruit before packing up our day bags and rucksacks and heading back into the rainforest.

Once again, the pace was Pole Pole in order to conserve energy for the higher altitudes.

The well-maintained path was easy going to start with, passing up and down through the sun-soaked canopy.

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

Throughout our hike we were constantly passed by the stream of porters carrying large green bags on their backs and heads.

I was in awe of their physical abilities, powering their way up and down the mountain with multiple bags weighing up to 20kg.

After around two hours of easy going walking we emerged from the rainforest into the moorland zone and the route intensified.

Consisting of high shrubbery, the path was riddled with boulders and undulated significantly.

We passed over a section known as the elephants back, which involved a 100m descent before making a significant climb up to the higher altitudes.

Through this section we were initially granted our first views back out over the start of the route before the clouds rolled in and gave us some respite from the intense sun.

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

 

After nearly six hours (only 4 of which were moving) and 9.3km of hiking we reached Shira 1 camp at an altitude of 3,510m. 

Located in the moorland zone, the camp is situated on a vast open plateau and is far more exposed to the elements.  

The camp was initially covered in low mist and light rain on arrival but thankfully the porters had already set up the tents and were cooking us lunch.

Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

 

After having the afternoon to rest and relax, the clouds began to clear and we were treated a rainbow over camp.

The entire team then serenaded us with some traditional songs before we were treated to an incredible sunset which lit up the clouds which were encircling Kilimanjaro.

Those clouds then cleared, revealing the mighty Uhuru peak in all its glory.

Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

We then settled down for another delightful two course meal of soup and spaghetti bolognaise.

After food I decided to take advantage of clear skies, low wind, and the camps unique location to stay out and capture the Milky Way beneath the clear skies.

I spent a good hour snapping away before retreating to my tent at around 10pm to get some well earned shut eye.

Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route
Shira 1 Camp: Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route

 

Day Three: Shira 1 to Shira 2 camp (3,850m) via Shira Peak

We awoke to frosty tents and a beautiful view of Kilimanjaro. The clear skies meant that the temperature dropped significantly over night.

The camp was extremely cold in the morning but after a beautiful sunrise which crept around the side of Kilimanjaro, the suns golden rays quickly began to heat everything back up.

After another mega breakfast of pancakes, porridge, omelette and fruit, we loaded up our bags and we were on our way. 

Shira 1 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Shira 1 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Shira 1 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

For the third day in a row I was wearing just shorts and long-sleeved base layer.

The sun’s rays were intense, especially on my pasty Welsh skin so I slapped on the factor 50 and tried to cover up as much as as I could.

Today’s plan was to detour via Shira Peak /Cathedral Point (3,875m) in order to add some extra acclimatisation.

Pole pole was once again the theme as we were constantly passed by the never-ending line of porters who were moving the entire camp up to to a higher altitude.

The path was very easy going for the first 6km and the exceptional view of Kilimanjaro kept spirits high. 

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

As was the theme with most days, the clear mornings gave way to cloudy afternoons.

Kilimanjaro and the rest of the route became enveloped in cloud and we were subject to extremely limited views for the second half of the route.

We made it up to Shira Peak but it was completely engulfed in fog, and the views were non-existant.

Shira point: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

The final 4km was spent hiking through the mist and we reached Shira 2 camp (3850m) after 11.5km of hiking over 6 hours. 

The incredible porters once again had everything set up in arrival. The chefs cooked us pizza, kebab skewers, and chips for lunch and vegetable peanut curry for dinner. 

Unfortunately, the clouds didn’t clear completely but we were still granted awesome views down over Moshi.

Shira 2 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route


Day 4: Shira 2 (3850m) to Baranco Camp (3900m) via Lava Tower (4600m)

We awoke from Shira 2 camp to the sky glowing bright orange. The views of both Kilimanjaro and Meru peak were incredible.

I spent the most of the morning outside the mess tent taking in the views and snapping away.

Shira 2 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Shira 2 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Shira 2 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Shira 2 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Shira 2 camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

After a better nights sleep and another hearty breakfast we departed Shira 2 camp and began our hike up to lava tower. 

I started off in trousers but as soon as the sun rose above Kilimanjaro I immediately de-layered and put the shorts back on.

Today was an acclimatisation day where we would climb high but sleep low.

From Shira 2 camp the path climbed steadily for the first few kilometres, which under the beating sun made it hard going. 

Fortunately, the glorious views of both Meru peak and Kilimanjaro helped keep the mind occupied.

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

 

We had a huge disparity of abilities and fitness levels within our group. We also had one member of the team, Ben Stewart, who was attempting to become the first person to walk up and down Kilimanjaro backwards.

Being somewhat of a mountain goat who frequently spends extended periods of time hiking, the pace was significantly slower to what I would consider as slow.

In order to spend less time on my feet and have slightly more acclimatisation time at 4,600m, I pushed on ahead of the main group, sticking to my own steady pace and making sure my heart rate didn’t go above 150 bpm.

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Lava Tower: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

I spend this time reflecting on the sheer scale and epic nature of the route, taking the time to chat to the numerous porters who were constantly passing me.

After three and a half hours and 7.5km of hiking, I reached lava tower at an altitude of 4,600m.

The tower was briefly visible before the entire camp became quickly enveloped in cloud. Around 45 minutes after I arrived, the remaining members of the team made it up to camp

Lava Tower: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Lava Tower: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Lava Tower: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route


After staying at 4,600m for 2 hours, during which I had a brief 20-minute nap and lunch, we began the decent down through the mist and rain.

After 90 minutes and 4km of descending I reached Baranco camp which sits at an altitude of 4,600m.  

The camp was again extremely busy with over 100 tents spread out over the valley floor. This was mainly down to the Lemosho route merging with the very popular Machame route.

Initially the camp was covered in low cloud but after its cleared shortly before sunset to revealing the the snow capped summit.

Barranco camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Barranco camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Day five: Baranco Camp (3900m) to Karanga Camp (3995m) 

We awoke from Baranco camp to clear skies and another majestic view of Kilimanjaro.

Unfortunately the beautiful views and incredible sunrise could no nothing to lift my spirits.

I had picked an illness which was going around camp and because of the altitude I had deteriorated significantly overnight.

I awoke in the proverbial Gulag with a sore throat, chesty cough, and feeling very nauseous.

The dementors were circling me at breakfast, I sat in silence unable to stomach the delightful food cooked by the porters.

Instead, I spent 20 minutes trying to force a 500-calorie flapjack down me.

Barranco camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

 

Fortunately for me and my illness, today’s hike was a short one, tackling the notorious Baranco wall.

The trail of brightly coloured jackets was already snaking its way up the cliff face as we departed camp.

Barranco camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Barranco camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Barranco Wall: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

The Barranco wall is a 2km climb up the steep sided cliff face which requires plenty of scrambling. 

Although not that difficult, the sheer number of people trying to climb it meant there was plenty of tailbacks on the way up. 

What was impressive was seeing the porters scrambling up the same cliff face with 20kg bags on their heads. 

Barranco Wall: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Barranco Wall: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Barranco Wall: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

 

The fresh mountain air, sunshine, and the incredible energy of our porters , who were blasting out their local tunes on their portable speakers, helped lift me out of the Gulag.

After two hours of scrambling though traffic jams we reached the top of the Baranco Wall and were up above the clouds.

Barranco Wall: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Barranco Wall: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

The trail then snaked up and down through the barren landscape for a further 4km until we reached Karanga Camp (3,995m). 

In total we had hiked 6.3km in 4 hours 45 minutes.

Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

The camp was covered in cloud on arrival but cleared for sunset, granting us an incredible view towards Kilimanjaro.

Fortunately, after a few hours of napping I was feeling much better and I was able to finally get some proper food in me.

Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Day 6: Karanga Camp (3,995m) to Barafu Camp (3,700m)

We woke above the clouds with another sensational view of both Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru. 

After having the best night’s sleep of the trip my energy levels had improved and I was no longer in the Gulag.

Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Karanga Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route


After another mega breakfast we set off from Karanga camp and began the steep climb up towards Barafu.

Today was a short 4km hike up to the highest camp of the route.

The pace was pole pole and the amazing views of Meru and Kilimanjaro helped take the mind of the lack of oxygen.

Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

After 2.5km of climbing we reached a saddle and Barafu camp came into view. We also got a first glimpse of the glaciers on top of Kilimanjaro

Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Day 6: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

After a brief flat section, it was one final punchy climb up Barafu camp which sits at an altitude of 4,700m. In total I had hiked 4.5km in 3 hours.

Barafu Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route


From the camp we could see the path to the summit alongside Mawenezi, which is one of the three summits of Kilimanjaro. 

We had stew for lunch, settled down for a n afternoon nap before an early dinner of bolognaise at 6pm. 

It was then time to head back to bed ready to start the summit climb at midnight.

The reason this is done is to try and get up to Kilimanjaro for Sunrise, Its also so you have the time to get back down to Barafu camp, before then descending further down the mountain

This was the first time I began to really feel the effects of altitude. Breathing was noticeably harder which made trying to sleep rather difficult.

Barafu Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Day 7: Summit day 

We were woken by the porters at 11pm ready to start our summit push at midnight.

Unfortunately, I had gotten very minimal sleep.

The various groups setting off at different times throughout the evening and the sheer number of porters who were either chatting away or getting up to their daily tasks, meant the camp was very noisy.  

With my bags already packed, I tried to sneak an extra 15 minutes sleep before getting dressed and heading to the mess tent.

As I was in for a 10-12 hour day I knew I needed all the energy and fluid I could get.

I had been hiking all week using a 3 litre hydro pack, but with the temperatures on the summit expecting to between -5 and -15 degrees, I knew the hose would freeze.

Instead I had decided to carry my fluid in 3 sperate bottles which only equated to just over 2 litres.

I made myself a coffee, downed 1.5 litres of electrolytes to make sure I started the hike hydrated, and put away another 500 calorie flapjack.

I had also drastically changed my attire for summit day.

All week I hade been hiking in Craghoppers shorts and long sleeved merino base layer.

I started the hike wearing

  • Adidas Terrex Free-Hiker 2.0 GTX shoes

  • Thermal socks

  • Merino leggings

  • fleece lined softshell trousers

  • Thermal merino base layer

  • Lightweight mid layer

  • Merino gloves

I was also carrying a waterproof outer shell, insulated down jacket, and a second mid layer, beanie, face buff, and a second pair of thicker insulated gloves.

We departed Barafu camp shortly after midnight, joining onto the trail of head torches already snaking their way up the mountain.

The route was savagely steep from the outset, and the lack of oxygen made it very difficult. I had decided to use my hiking poles for the first time and it was paying dividends.

The temperature was quite mild to start with and I was quickly hiking in just a base layer and gloves on my top half.

There was no rest bite and the path relentlessly zig zagged its way up the mountain for what felt like an eternity.

Around two hours into the hike the wind picked up and the temperature dropped significantly, I threw on two mid layers, my outer shell, beanie, and a second pair of gloves.

After 5 hours 45 minutes of grinding through the darkness, I reached Stella point up on the crater rim.

We were up above the clouds and a horizon a warm orange glow lit up the horizon.

The combination of the difficulty of the hike, the majestical views, and the amount of emotional people around me made it one of the most special experiences I have ever witnessed.

Stella Point: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Stella Point: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Sunrise From Kibo Crater: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Sunrise From Kibo Crater: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Much to the disappointment of several people who thought we were at the summit, we still had to make the final 1km walk around the crater rim around to Uhuru point.

On the way we caught the sunrise and it was absolutely sensational. 

It honesty felt like we were on another planet.

Mawenezi protruded from the clouds like a shattered crown and the suns golden rays was dancing off the glaciers.

Whilst a lot of the group were flagging, the suns rays and majestical views also seemed to invigorate me.

Energised and overcome with second wind, I was darting up and down the path and trying to soak in the views and capture as much as I could.

Sunrise From Kibo Crater: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Sunrise From Kibo Crater: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Sunrise From Kibo Crater: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route



I finally reached the summit at Uhuru point 6 hours and 50 minutes after leaving Barafu Camp. In total I had hiked 7km and climbed 1,250m.

The sky was clear and the views were on another level, we could see for miles and miles. 

Despite there only being around 20 people up on the summit when I was there, there was a distinct lack of decorum when queuing for a summit picture.

People were pushing in and there was a lot of shouting which detracted from the overall experience.

Ben Stewart also became only the third person and the first European to reach the summit of Kilimanjaro by walking backwards.

Uhuru Peak: The summit of mount Kilimanjaro
Uhuru Peak: The summit of mount Kilimanjaro

Despite the lack of oxygen (There is only 50% of available oxygen compared to sea level), I was actually feeling really good.

I stayed up on the summit for 45 minutes, capturing footage of all members of our group at the summit before enjoying the views of Meru, Kibo crater, and the glaciers.

Uhuru Peak: The summit of mount Kilimanjaro
Uhuru Peak: The summit of mount Kilimanjaro
Uhuru Peak: The glaciers on summit of mount Kilimanjaro

Not wanting to prolong the descent I got a shift on, B-lining it 5km back down the scree slopes and running back to Barafu camp in just over 90 minutes. 

In total it had taken me 10 hours to get up and back from the summit. 

Barafu Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

I spent the rest of the afternoon napping, waiting for the rest of the group to get off the mountain.

In order to try and summit at the same time, three members of our group set off at 10pm. It took them 12 hours to reach summit and another 5 hours to get back down to camp.

In total then were hiking for nearly 17 hours, which shows a huge amount of both mental and physical resolve.

Uhuru Peak: The summit of mount Kilimanjaro

In total, 9 out of 10 members of our group managed to summit.

The mountain takes no prisoners and I witnessed numerous people either turning around or being carried back down.

Once everyone was off the mountain and had some food, we then made the 4km descent at 5pm down Millennium camp.

Situated at 3,900m, this was our last camp before we made the final hike off the mountain the next day. 

The weather had deteriorated and it had started raining significantly. So this wasn’t the most enjoyable walk of the trip.

We arrived at around 7pm extremely tired and after a late evening meal went straight to bed.

Millenium Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Day 8: Millenium Camp (3900m) to Mweka Gate (1640m)

We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and one final view of Kilimanjaro.

Today we had to make the final 14km hike back down through the moorland zone and rainforest to Mweka Gate.

Energy levels in the camp were expectedly low after a very long summit day.

Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route
Mweka Camp: Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route

Because of this, the pace walking off the mountain was very slow. The path was steep and uneven in sections and the heavy rain made it very muddy and slippery underfoot.

After over 7 hours of walking, only five of which I was moving, we made it down to Mweka Gate at an altitude of 1,640m.

Ben Stewart officially became the first person to walk up and down Kilimanjaro backwards. Which was an incredible achievement.

Mweka Gate:Hiking Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

We celebrated with several bottles of cold fizzy drinks, before signing out of the national park, collecting our certificates, and heading off the mountain.

Somehow my certificate said I was 93 years old, which officially made me the oldest person to ever summit Kilimanjaro

Later that afternoon we had a tipping ceremony with the entire local team. We also donated them a significant amount of kit and equipment before retreating back to the Ameg hotel for a well-earned wash and meal.

Hiking Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

 

Final thoughts

I had an incredible eight days, creating memories that will last a lifetime.

The route was beautiful, the company was excellent, and the local team were on another level.

Jack and Sam who run Legend Expeditions, went above and beyond both before and during the trip.

In the build up to the trip they made sure everyone was properly prepared, providing weekly emails, regular calls, and even providing strength and conditioning programmes for those who needed them.

On the trip they carried clients’ bags and even sacrificed their own water, food, and health in order to make sure as many clients reached the summit as possible.

Hiking Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

The local team they sourced were also brilliant. They were some of the kindest and most genuine people you will ever meet.

They went above and beyond to make sure we were comfortable and had everything we needed.

Masanaje (the head guide) brought a tremendous amount of energy and him and his team practically danced and sung their way up the mountain.

The tents were spacious, the sleeping mats were comfy, and the food was exceptional given where we were.

The addition of bringing toilets and a shower tent also meant that we were able to stay clean and minimise picking up any illnesses.

I would definitely recommend attempting to climb Kilimanjaro and I would strongly suggest doing it via the Lemosho route.

The variety of the route, the views we witnessed, and the camps we stayed in were remarkable and made the trip even more special.

Hiking it over eight days meant we were all able to properly acclimatise which was a big factor in 9/10 of us reaching the summit.

The company and group dynamic were also brilliant, this was made possible by the leadership skills of Jack and Sam. This meant each day was far more enjoyable and we ended up becoming one big family.

Hiking Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

We got lucky with the weather, with it being clear and sunny every morning and most evenings.

The afternoons were cloudy and we only had light rain on day one, four, and seven.

This meant the whole experience was much more enjoyable as the camps, our kit, and equipment stayed dry.

The weeks prior had significant amounts of rainfall, and some of the camps even flooded. If this was the case it would have been a significantly more challenging and far less enjoyable.

I will write separate blogs for my kit list and the advice I have for climbing Kilimanjaro. You can find both of them below.

I will finish by saying make sure you pick the right company, route, and arrive properly prepared for a fitness and kit perspective.

These things will go a long way to making sure you have the best experience possible.

Hiking Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

Mount Kilimanjaro FAQs

Where is Mount Kilimanjaro located?

Mount Kilimanjaro is located in the country of Tanzania in East Africa. the northern edge of the mountain borders Kenya to the north.

How high is Mount Kilimanjaro?

Mount Kilimanjaro stands at 5,895 meters or 19,341 feet above sea-level. It is both Africa’s tallest mountain and the largest free-standing mountain in the world.

What type of volcano is Mount Kilimanjaro?

Mount Kilimanjaro is a stratovolcano, which is a term for a very large volcano made of ash, lava, and rock. Mount Kilimanjaro is made up of three cones: KiboMawenzi, and ShiraKibo is the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro and the tallest of the three volcanic formations. Uhuru Peak is the highest point of Kibo (Mount Kilimanjaro).

Climbing mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.


How difficult is it to climb Mount Kilimanjaro?

This will depend entirely on your fitness levels, experience hiking and at altitude, alongside the route you take.

I would rate the Lemosho route as moderate with the summit day being very challenging. You hike between 4-12 km each day at a very steady pace and get plenty of rest.

I hike a lot and I found the first six days relatively easy. However the summit day was very tough.

It is achievable for those with a minimal amount of fitness and even if you dont have trekking experience.

We had a person summit the mountain walking backwards, and I also saw a 79 year old women hike to above 5,000m.

The biggest challenge is having to stay in a tent for 7 nights alongside the altitude.

However by taking a longer route to the summit you have more time to acclimatise and thus a greater chance of success.

Climbing mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

When is the best time to climb mount Kilimanjaro?

The best time to climb Mount Kilimanjaro is between January to March and June to October.

Rainy season tends to end by the end of December/early January, however in 2024 it continued until early February.

I did the hike between the 7th and 14th February and we got very lucky with the weather.

Every morning and evening we had cloud free and clear skies with the afternoon tending to be overcast. We only had light rain in the afternoon of day one, day four, and on summit day.

This meant the whole experience was much more enjoyable as the camps, our kit, and equipment stayed dry.

The weeks prior had significant amounts of rainfall, and some of the camps even flooded. If this was the case it would have been a significantly more challenging and far less enjoyable.

June to October is the peak season with the summer holidays. It’s a great time to trek but the mountain will be significantly busier.

What equipment and kit do you need to Climb Mount Kilimanjaro?

Due to its proximity to the equator, Mount Kilimanjaro doesn’t experience huge changes in temperature across the different seasons. Instead, the temperature differences on the mountain are determined by both the altitude and what time of day it is.

You will pass through 5 different climate zones which vary in temperature and weather. You need to be able to account for conditions which are hot and humid, warm and sunny, rainy, windy, cold, and even snow.

Also note that conditions can change very quickly, one moment you can be walking in baking sunshine under a cloud fee sky, then within 10 minutes you’re enveloped in cloud and are layering up against rain and wind.

Because of this Hikers need to be prepared for multiple seasons not only across the trip, but in a single day.

You can find my full kit list here: Mount Kilimanjaro Kit List.

What footwear to wear when Hiking on Kilimanjaro?

As the underfoot terrain on Kilimanjaro changes across the mountain, you will be hiking over a huge range of varying surfaces. These include mud, Grass, tree roots, rocks, Stones and scree and close to the summit you may even walk across a small amount of compact snow.

First and foremost you will need hiking footwear which is comfortable, and you are happy to wear for 6-8 days straight.

The footwear should also be durable, offer support and protection, alongside having a good amount of grip.

I would also recommend shoes which are waterproof as you are likely to encounter rain on your trek.

The material and cut of the shoe is up to you. I would recommend a mid-cut boot to protect your ankles against rocks and to stop scree and water entering your shoes.

I wore Adidas Terrex Free Hiker 2.0 Gore-Tex shoes which were perfect. They were lightweight, incredibly comfortable, offered protection, and didn’t cause me any blisters or issues.

Climbing mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.


What is the cost of climbing Kilimanjaro?

The costs will vary depending on what company you use and what route you take.

Legend Expeditions charged £3,250 for the 8 day trek.

This included all food and drink on the mountain alongside a tent, and camping mat. It also included transfers, alongside a nights stay at the AMEG lodge before and after the hike.

The food was exceptional and we also had our own toilets and showers brought up the mountain with us.

Other companies do offer the trek at at cheaper price, however as its such a big hike and involves a lot of time on the mountain I would recommend spending a bit more to make sure you have the most comfortable experience and the best chance of summiting.

Climbing mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

Should you take medication when climbing Mount Kilimanjaro?

To put it simply there is less oxygen available at higher altitudes.

At the summit of Kilimanjaro there’s is only 50% of the available oxygen that you will find at sea level.

Symptoms of altitude sickness can start at about 3,000m (10,000 ft), and include headaches, diarrhoea and vomiting, dizziness and difficulty sleeping.

The way to counteract this altitude sickness is to spend more time at altitude, hiking high and sleeping low. This is why the longer routes up Kilimanjaro have a far higher success rate than the shorter routes.

Another way to counteract the altitude sickness is with medication. I took Diamox, which I would recommend.

Diamox helps you adjust to altitude quicker and reduces the risk of symptoms or the severity of any symptoms you experience.

Across the eight days I had very little issues with the altitude, despite never hiking above 3,000m.

The only side effect of taking Diamox is that you will need to pass urine more frequently.

Personally I dont think that is really much of a side effect, especially when you will already be passing urine more frequently.

If you have spent a significant amount of money attempting to climb Kilimanjaro, the why not spend a little more to help improve your chances of summitting alongside making the experience more enjoyable.

I started taking Diamox the day before I started the climb, I took half a tablet each morning and half a tablet in the evening.

Not everyone took the Diamox in the group I was with. However the only person who did not summit, didn’t take Diamox

Climbing mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

How much fluid should you drink per day while climbing Kilimanjaro?

Drinking plenty of fluid is one of the main ways to combat altitude sickness symptoms, so staying well hydrated throughout the climb is essential.

It is recommended to drink between four to five litres per day.

This will be spread across hot drinks, soups, and the water you drink on your hike.

I carried a three litre water bladder by Osprey when hiking which was perfect as it allowed me to drink on the go which saved time and energy.

I also would recommend taking electrolyte tablets or powder in order to help combat the salt loss and to stop you flushing out all the salt from your body.

I used these tablets from Precision Hydration, taking two per day.

How much should you tip the porters when climbing Kilimanjaro?

Tipping is standard for a Mount Kilimanjaro climb.

The amount will depend on the company and cost of the tour, with a standard guide being 10% of the cost of your trip.

We were recommended to tip a minimum of $275 USD per person, I ended tipping $320.

The porters go above and beyond for you during the trip and are the real hero’s. You would not be able to summit without them so I felt the tips was well earned.

Climbing mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

So there we have it, my hiking guide to Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho Route.

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Mount Kilimanjaro kit list: What I packed to hike the 8 day Lemosho route

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