A GUIDE TO THE ELAN VALLEY

Nestled in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales, the Elan valley is a series of Victorian dams and reservoirs located within some of the most picturesque landscape Wales has to offer.

Because the areas is Sandwiched between Snowdonia and the Brecon Beacons national park,the region is criminally under visited and underappreciated despite the beauty it contains.

Covering 1% of Wales it’s a location which you simply must visit and this guide will help showcase why.

A brief history of the Elan Valley

The dams, reservoirs, and 73 mile aqueduct of the Elan Valley were built over a hundred years ago to supply clean water to the city of Birmingham.

Building work stared in 1883 and the last dam was declared open in 1952.

The Elan Valley was chosen as a location for the project for serval factors;

• It had an average annual rainfall of 1,830 millimetres (72 in).

• The dams could be easily built in the narrow valleys.

• The bedrock was impermeable to water.

• The Valley is 52 metres (171 ft) above Birmingham, meaning the water could flow via gravity rather than being pumped.

In total there are six dams situated within the Elan Estate, five of which are completed.

There are four dams on the river Elan; Craig Goch, Pen y Garreg, Garreg Ddu, and Caban Coch. The river Claerwen houses the newest, and largest Claerwen dam alongside the unfinished Dol y Mynach dam.

The reservoirs are all still fully functional and are now owned and managed by Welsh Water.

Where is the Elan Valley located?

Situated to the west of the of the market town Rhayader, the Elan Valley is nestled in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales.

The valley is easily reached by car and should take approximately the following times from these locations.

• Aberystwyth - 1 hour

• Swansea & Cardiff - <2 hours

• Birmingham, Bristol, & Liverpool - 2.5 hours

• Manchester - 3 hours

• London - 4 Hours

Can you drive around Elan Valley?

Yes, all five of the built dams are accessible by car, with small car parks (which are all free) located next to each of them.

The road which leads through the valley runs alongside the reservoirs and dams creating a truly scenic drive.

However these roads are slightly narrow with no road markings, and although you can fit two cars, you may have to stop on occasions to let wider vehicles pass.

Does it cost to visit the Elan Valley?

The Elan Valley is free to visit.

The only cost is if you want to park at the Elan Valley visitor centre. It is £3 for the day and they use a number recognition cameras as you enter the car park.

However all other car parks within the Valley, including those next to the dams are free to stop and park at.

When is the best time to visit the Elan Valley?

Although this magnificent section of Wales is worthy of a visit year round, it is best visited during the late winter & early spring after a period of heavy rainfall.

At this time of year, the reservoirs will be full and hopefully all five of the dams will be in full flow, making this location even more beautiful than it already is.

During this time of year the Milky Way will also be visible shortly after dark, meaning if you have a clear sky you don’t have to stick around too late to see the stars or capture some night time astrophotography.

A little word of warning, if you visit during the summer or autumn months, the dams will not be flowing and the reservoir levels will be very low.

On the several occasions I have been, only once have the dams been flowing. Even then it was only the first reservoir, Caban Coch, which was flowing and the low mist meant it was very difficult to see.

How long should I spend at the Elan Valley?

In total there are 12 miles of road linking Elan Valley visitor centre to all five of the completed Dams.

As a minimum I would say you need 2 hours to make the drive around the valley whilst taking the time to get out to see each dam.

However with plenty of walking and cycling trails around the reservoirs, I would recommend spending at least half day (A full day if you have it) within the valley to truly appreciate and explore the magnificent area.

Some of the roads and landscape in-between the dams are photo opportunities in itself and you will find most likely find yourself out of the car more than you are in it.

Things to do in the Elan Valley

1. Visit the Dams

First and foremost you should take the time to visit each of the five completed dams which are located across the two valleys. These are the primary draw of the Elan valley and are truly spectacular feats of engineering set within an even more impressive landscape.

Most people will be entering the valley from the West meaning their first stop will be the Caban Coch dam next to the visitor centre. From here it’s 12 miles (45 minutes) of driving to visit all of the five completed dams.

Below I have listed the completed dams in the order which is the quickest and most practical to visit without having to double back on yourself.

Caban Coch

The lowest of the dams on the Elan River and the first in the valley to be constructed. It is the simplest and most functional in appearance, resembling a natural waterfall when the reservoir is full. This dam contributes the supply of water to Birmingham when water levels are normal whilst helping maintain water levels of the river Wye.

If driving in from Rhayader this will be the first dam you reach. Although you can easily view it from the platforms at the top of the dam, the best view is from the bridge located directly in front of the visitor centre.

To avoid paying the £3 parking fee which you will be charged for driving into the car park at the visitor centre, park in the small car park at the top of the dam and make the short walk down to its base. For those seeking a little more solitude, you can walk across the bridge and view Caban Coch from the symmetrical viewpoint on the opposite bank.

Garreg Ddu

This dam is completely submerged and has two primary functions. Firstly it supports the bridge which connects the only road into the neighbouring Claerwen Valley.

Secondly it maintains a constant supply of water to Birmingham, even when water levels are extremely low. The water is extracted at the Foel Tower (the green topped building next to the dam) and flows via gravity down a 73 mile long aqueduct. The water constantly flows down hill, dropping 52 meters over the 73 miles, taking between 1.5 & 2 days to reach Birmingham.

You will initially approach the dam from the north , resist stopping on the roadside near the Foel Tower as there’s a large gravel car park on the other side. From here you can walk back across the bridge and view it from both sides.

So you dont end up doubling back on yourself, I would proceed to follow the road onto the neighbouring valley to visit the Claerwen Dam. The Claerwen is only accessible via a single road and doesn’t connect to any of the other dams apart from the Garreg Du.

Claerwen Dam

At 56 m high and 35m long the Claerwen is the newest and biggest of all the dams in the Elan Valley. It was built in response the great drought of 1937 and opened in 1952 after 6 years of hard graft. Due it's sheer size it actually holds the same amount of water than all the other four dams combined.

Once again you can view this dam from below or above, with small parking areas located at each viewpoint. You can also drive across the dam to view it from the opposite side. If you did want to stretch the legs there’s a short but steep zig zagging path that links the bottom of the dam to the top. There is also a toilet located at the bottom car park, however it is closed during the Winter months.

From the Claerwen, head back over the Garreg Ddu Dam and turn left up the valley.

Pen y Garreg

The second highest dam in the Elan Valle, it houses a passageway through its centre which you can walk through to gain access to the central tower. Unfortunately this passageway isn’t freely open to the public, but you can pre-book a tour through the Elan valley trust.

As there is only enough space for two cars just off the main road, stopping at the top of this dam is usually very difficult. Instead either park at Pen y Garreg car park at the base of the dam, or Penbont tea house on the hairpin bend on the way up to the dam.

If you want a different perspective you can also view the dam from the opposite bank as part of the Elan Valley trail, or you can hike up to the hillside facing the dam for a impressive panoramic view.

Craig Goch

Located at a height of over 1000 ft above sea level, Craig Goch is the highest upstream dam in the Elan Valley. It is also viewed by many as the most attractive of the dams, due to its elegantly curved wall and a series of arches which support the narrow roadway which runs across the top.

Like the Garreg Du, you can drive across the dam and view it from both sides. There’s is limited parking at either end of the dam, however with people frequently coming and going it shouldn’t take too long for a space to appear.

Personally this dam is my favourite not only due to the structure itself but the spectacular backdrop behind it. Take the time to make the short hike up to the viewpoint on its western bank for magnificent panoramic views of the upper valley. this spot is also a great place to watch the sunset from as the photos in this blog will attest.

2. Get your walking boots on and hit the trails

There are over 80 miles of designated rights of way for walkers to enjoy in the Elan valley.

Whether you want a gentle stroll through the greenery and dams or a more challenging hike amongst rocky crags and waterways, there’s a route for you.

The most popular walk is the Elan Valley trail, a 9 mile one-way stretch of bridleway which runs from Rhayader up to Craig Goch dam which is open for both walkers and cyclists.

Currently 50m of the trail is closed due to a rockfall, meaning there is a large detour which follows the road. If you are feeling a little adventurous you can either follow the mountainous route above the trail, or navigate the short closed section by skirting around the fencing closest to the reservoir (It not difficult or dangerous as I have done it whilst carrying a mountain bike).

All information on the Elan Valley trail and the closure can be found here.

You can also go further afield and explore the wild Cambrian mountains which enclose the Elan Valley.

Mobile phone signal is extremely limited and the terrain is both wild and rugged, so appropriate footwear and clothing alongside basic navigational skills are necessary.

The highest point on the Elan estate is the 645m summit of Drygarn Fawr. Although I haven’t reached the summit, I have mountain biked up to a neighbouring peak which stood at 560m.

The terrain is wild, grassy, and extremely boggy so definitely pack a spare pair of shoes in the car for when you return.

On a clear day you will be able to see as far as Pen-y-fan to the south and Snowdonia to the north.

Information on the 9.5 mile hike can be found here.

3. Rent a Mountain bike and hit up the trails

The Elan Valley is renowned for some of the best natural mountain biking routes in the UK.

Scattered around the valley and surrounding hills, are eight designated trails ranging from blue to black which have been created and are maintained by Mountain Bike Wales.

There is also two downhill skills tracks situated above the Garreg Du Dam that are aimed at experienced and intermediate mountain biking enthusiasts.

Alongside theses designated trails, MTB Wales also offers weekend tours of the Elan valley by bike, all information for which can be found on their website.

If you haven't brought your own, Bike hire is readily available at the visitor centre where you can also find information and insight on all the areas trails.

4. Bikepack the regions beautiful landscape

The Elan Valley’s spectacular natural beauty, impressive cycling terrain, alongside its proximity to several bothies mean that the area is favoured by bike packers.

In its simplest form, bikepacking is the fusion of cycling and back packing and can be undertaken on any form of bike by people of all ages and abilities.

The most popular route which passes through the Elan Valley is is the Trans-Cambrian way, A 100 mile trail which takes in over 10,000ft of elevation gain.

The official route can be found here, but if you didn’t want to tackle it solo, Mountain Bike Wales also offer a three day guided tour of the route.

5. Go Star Gazing

In 2015, the Elan Valley became the first location in Wales to achieve International Dark Sky Park status. This now means that the entire Elan Valley estate is protected against light pollution.

The area has some of the darkest skies in Wales and on cloud-free nights you can gaze up at the sky and see planets, millions of stars, and even the Milky way.

It's pollution free skies accompanied by the Valleys stunning foreground make this area is extremely popular with astro photographers.

The Elan Valley Astronomy Group holds regular meet-ups at night in the Elan Valley visitor centre to educate visitors on the night sky and give people a chance to explore it through telescopes.

6. Witness a cloud inversion over the Cambrian mountains

Cloud inversions are some of the most magical weather phenomena you can witness.

They happen when when moist cold air is trapped under a layer of warm air, in mountainous regions it can often lead to the summits of peaks being located above the clouds, as if they are islands in the sky.

Although this isn’t something which will be guaranteed when you visit the Elan Valley, it is a regular occurrence due to the high level of moisture in the air from the reservoirs.

Of the four times I have visited the Elan, I have witnessed a cloud inversion on three occasions.

Sometimes you dont actually know there is one as you are situated within the low cloud.

However if you can see a hazy sun or blue sky trying to peak through, head up those hills and you might be treated to a spectacular sea of cloud.

The best conditions are periods of high pressure coupled with cold temperatures and a light breeze. You’re also more likely to see them in the early morning before the sun has chance to burn off the clouds.

Can you swim in the Elan Valley?

Due to conservation purposes, underwater machinery, and health & safety, no swimming, or water sports are allowed in any of the reservoirs within the valley.

Where to stay in the Elan Valley?

While there isn’t a whole host of accommodation located within the valley its self, the Elan Valley Trust owns four self catering cottages on the estate which you can rent. You can also stay at the Penbont Bed and Breakfast which is situated in the heart of the valley next to Pen-y-Garreg Dam.

If none of those tickle your fancy, the nearby market town of Rhayader has a wider selection of accommodation options which can be found here.

Other than that you can use google, booking.com, or Air BnB to help find accommodation in the surrounding area which will suit you style and budget.

Use the code ‘Idonthaveanyaffliatelinks’ to get 0% off.

What did you think of my guide to Elan Valley? Are you going to add this delightful part of Wales to your must visit list? Let me know in the comments below.

If you did find this guide helpful, I’d appreciate you giving it a share, purchasing one of my calendars, or giving me a follow on social media, every bit of support goes a long way.

For more inspiration and travel guides to the best places to visit in wales, check out my in-depth guides below which include my favourite hikes and photography spots in each region.

• Guide to the Brecon Beacons

• Guide to Pembrokeshire

• Guide to Snowdonia

• Guide to The Gower Peninsula

• Guide to Wales